Why you need to visit Greenland: It could just be the most incredible place on Earth

The multicoloured houses of Greenland are a sight to behold. Picture: Chris Bray Photography

LURED by a distant chorus of sled dogs, my wife Jess and I wound our little wooden sailboat around the whales and icebergs of Greenland’s west coast towards Ilulissat in 2011.

Even before the mosaic of multicoloured houses slid into view from behind another glistening wall of ice, we knew we’d found something special.

While cruise ships sometimes visit Greenland’s desolate eastern coastline on their way to hot spots __like Iceland and Svalbard, the western side of the world’s largest island is truly spectacular, and only just waking to the world of tourism.

Since our first visit, Lonely Planet has listed Greenland as a “Top 10 Travel Destination” and with regular flights now from Iceland and Denmark, Greenland is fast becoming a must-see.

Here’s why we keep going back to this incredible place.

Not a bad view to wake up to. Picture: Chris Bray PhotographySource:Supplied

ICEBERGS

Bathed in 24hr sunlight above the Arctic Circle in summer, ‘Ilulissat’ literally means ‘Iceberg’ in Greenlandic.

This waterfront township is nestled right beside the enormous Jakobshavn Glacier, annually emptying some 35 billion tonnes of icebergs into the UNESCO world heritage-listed Ilulissat Icefjord, making it one of the world’s most productive glaciers.

It’s believed that the iceberg that sank the Titanic likely originated from this very spot.

This is what ‘going for a walk’ looks __like in Greenland. Picture: Chris Bray PhotographySource:Supplied

WHALES

Six years ago we watched old wooden whaling boats (complete with harpoon guns) unload their catch upon the docks, and the whales we saw were understandably shy.

Returning last year to run a photography tour, it was wonderful to see these same old boats now converting to the more tourism-friendly activity of whale-watching tours, and a growing population of Humpback whales reliably cruising among the icebergs.

Whales, icebergs and the ‘golden hour’ lasting all night, it doesn’t get better than this. Picture: Chris Bray PhotographySource:Supplied

With the ‘golden hour’ of photography stretching on all night, these midnight-sun cruises around the whales and these exquisitely sculpted bergs is an experience like none other.

WILDLIFE

Behind the colourful houses, well-maintained hiking trails of varying lengths meander across the surrounding treeless landscape where wildlife including arctic fox, arctic hare and — if you’re lucky — even Muskox roam around on the tundra.

Just a couple of Arctic wolf puppies. Picture: Chris Bray PhotographySource:Supplied

I left my GoPro camera outside one hole, and the next morning, it was gone! I eventually found it, and reviewing the footage, was delighted to find three black arctic fox cubs had playing with it!

One of the cheeky black arctic fox cubs. Picture: Chris Bray PhotographySource:Supplied

SLED DOGS

In 2011 there were more sled dogs than people in Ilulissat — about 5,000 of them staked around the outskirts of town — and although there are less than half that many today, returning last July, five adorable puppies had just been born.

Their eyes not yet open, they fumbled and squeaked around inside the kennel while their mother stood beside us peering in at the very newest additions to one of the oldest breeds of dog in the world, arriving with the Saqqaq people between 4000 and 5000 years ago.

North of the Arctic Circle in Greenland, only these Greenlandic sled dogs are allowed, keeping this wonderfully strong and noble breed pure.

Chris Bray playing with a cute sled dog puppy. Picture: Chris Bray PhotographySource:Supplied

TRADITIONAL VILLAGES

While still authentic-looking, Ilulissat actually offers everything from backpacker accommodation and kayak hire to quality museums and the world’s most northerly 4-star hotel.

Just to the south though, in the tiny traditional village of Ilimanaq, the 53 local inhabitants still hang their fish out on drying racks and enjoy a much simpler lifestyle.

Despite it’s recent surge in popularity from tourists, locals in Greenland still live the traditional way of life. Picture: Chris Bray PhotographySource:Supplied

CLIMATE

While the long bitter winter offers the chance for dog sledding and perhaps the aurora borealis, the brief, vigorous summer is the best time to experience Greenland at it’s most vibrant and beautiful. A high-pressure system usually develops over the icecap delivering surprisingly warm and sunny weather in July, with temperatures sneaking above +10° C.

THE HIGHLIGHT

After Ilulissat, Jess and I sailed onwards right across the top of Canada and Alaska through the infamous Northwest Passage finding polar bears and more, but of the whole multi-year adventure, we enjoyed our time in Greenland the most.

Chris and Jess Bray’s yacht Teleport the first time they travelled to Greenland in 2011. Picture: Chris Bray PhotographySource:Supplied

Chris Bray grew up sailing around the world, then leading arctic expeditions before becoming an award-winning photographer running tours around the world. He travels to Iceland and Greenland every July. Follow his wildlife photography on Instagram.

Greenland Connection48:50

Greenland and the Arctic are being severely affected by climate change, but as its ice sheets melt, how will the changes there affect other countries far away?

• March 15th 2015
• 2 years ago
• /video/video.news.com.au/TV/Documentary/